It is not the grand cathedrals that stay with me, nor the spires, nor even the glass towers staking their claim on the sky. What lingers is smaller, almost invisible the chipped blue door on a terraced street, the overheard laughter from two women carrying their shopping home, the way sunlight stains the brick at four in the afternoon, thin and precise. London does not beg to be admired; it insists on being lived in. Beauty arrives disguised, folded into bus windows fogged with breath, or the we
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